The Art and Passion of John Bailey - A Rare Interview

By Veronica Kavanagh

Amidst the flames and sparks of Bonfire Night, on November 5, 1981, John Bailey decided to become the master of his own destiny and has never looked back. Fueled by determination, talent and a passion for perfume, he createdThe Perfumers Guild, an ultra niche perfumery of limited edition and bespoke fragrances based on the idea of quality, luxury and dedication to the art of fine perfumery.

Starting his business long before the current proliferation of niche perfume houses, John’s roots in the fragrance and flavor world run deep, stretching from his apprenticeship with a venerable manufacturing chemist in the U.K. to the modern day perfume dynasties in Grasse, France.

A passionate rose lover and member of the Royal National Rose Society, John built his business by exhibiting his hand-blended perfumes at local rose shows and festivals, eventually creating “Society Rose” perfume for the RNRS, with other perfumes following in the line for the society. John also has a thriving business to as a consultant to the flavor and fragrance industry and is much in demand as a guest speaker and lecturer; he appeared on BBC TV’s first season of The Apprentice in 2008, advising the final teams on creating a new fragrance. (clique aqui para ler a entrevista completa)

REACHING HEAVEN: An Interview with Bertrand Duchaufour

By Marlene Goldsmith

Bertrand Duchaufour is a perfumer of astonishing versatility and originality. He has been christened the “new Pope of niche fragrances,” a “master of the modernist style (Jardin du Poete),” as well as an artist who renders “ancient, classical beauty new (Paestum Rose).” His perfumes are often referred to as perfect works of art, and he created two of the greatest scents of our time, Timbuktu and Dzongkha (1). Duchaufour stands as one of the world’s finest contemporary perfumers. 

Starting out as a trainee at the Lautier Florasynth group in Grasse and working with Florasynth Paris, he moved on to affiliations with such companies as Créations Aromatiques, Comme de Garçon Kyoto, Acqua di Parma, Eau d’Italie, L’Artisan Parfumeur, and Penhaligon. Most recently he has joined The Different Company (TDC). In this interview Duchaufour discusses his experience working with Marina Sersale and Sebastián Alvarez of Eau d’Italie, plans for future scents with TDC, his spiritual and rational approaches to creating fragrance, and so much more. (clique aqui para ler a entrevista completa)

Inside Mandy’s “Secret Garden”: Exclusive Interview with Mandy Aftel of Aftelier Perfumes

There are many things you know about Mandy Aftel, the 3x Fragrance Foundation 2011 Awards Finalist and “the Mother” of Natural Perfumery. She speaks in front of thousands, revered by even more; but she is a private person who doesn’t like the spotlight shining on her; Mandy wants our readers to know she is actually quite shy. Instead of speaking about her philanthropy, her personal life and topical fragrance issues, she much rather that Cafleurebon give you a piece of her scented soul by inviting you to enter the place she calls home—which is also her Atelier- and where she lives a relatively quiet life with her husband, her much beloved plants, flowers … its her sanctuary, her refuge and the source of constant inspiration.

I stopped searching Michelyn Camen and Mandy Aftel after 16 pages on Google .We have had a long and mutually enriching relationship; as I was the first mainstream journalist to interview you in 2007, dubbing you the Queen of Green. I know that my knowledge of natural perfumery began with you and changed my perception of fine fragrance .

Does the recognition and growth of natural perfumery in 2011 surprise you?

MA: No it doesn't surprise me, but it does make me very happy. I am so glad to see so many people embracing natural perfumery; I see people launching their lines and teaching others how to make perfume. Also, many people are just learning on their own, people who love the essential oils and find their way by teaching themselves. Now many blogs cover natural perfumes and bring attention to new and young perfumers – it was a dream of mine from the very beginning that there would be room for all-natural perfume in the marketplace, and I see that as actually taking place now. (clique aqui para ler a entrevista completa)

Interview with Mona Di Orio of Mona Di Orio Perfumes

Mona Di Orio fragrances have always enjoyed a cult following among a select group of the cognoscenti. Mystery surrounded her inaugural line (reminding me of another Mona) from its launch to the present. One day they were at Bergdorf Goodman, Aedes and other shoppes in NYC. Then poof they were gone. There were even rumors the House was going out of business. But Mona loyalists ordered from her website and stayed true. Now a new direction of Mona Di Orio fragrances have been welcomed by many and appeal to a wider niche audience- Les Nombres d'Or. I fell in love with Musc and Ambre, and found them to be beautifully constructed (and for me personally just as complex as her previous line but infinitely more wearable). In this interview Mona reveals herself, so that her fragrances have a context for those who are unfamiliar with her work, for those who are dissapointed by the new direction and those like myself and Mark Behnke who applaud it.

You were born in France to a Spanish mother and an Italian father what aspect of each culture has influenced you olfactive and personally?

It’s above all a deep Mediterranean influence. My grandmothers and my mother are all excellent cooks and I spent a lot of time observing them when they were in their kitchen or going with them to the market, I was always trying to touch and smell the fruits and vegetables. Indeed the market is the first place I visit when I travel, it informs me about the habits and customs of the country. Our meals were always full of flavor, color and happiness.(clique aqui para ler a entrevista completa)

Interview with Jessica September Buchanan of 1000 Flowers: Indie Perfumery …The Next Generation

We test hundreds of fragrances a year, and you get a sixth sense about who has “it. We believe she does. Jessica is an 'ethical perfumer', who like Michel Roudnitska, believes that creators of fine fragrance must be responsible and aware that preserving our depleted natural resources is essential; ethical perfumery. Jessica is ‘one to watch’ and in reading this interview you will understand why.

Where did you grow up? Please describe your childhood olfactively.

JSB: I began my childhood on Saltspring Island… one of the Gulf Islands off the west coast of Canada. I will always remember bring quite ill once at about 4 years old, and my mother placing a huge bouquet of lilacs from our garden beside my bed.Their perfume helped me heal. As well, I will always remember the scent of the sea and the beach, since we walked there almost every day. Later, from about the age of six onward, we lived on ranches in the interior of BC. I remember the smell of my pony's skin after long rides herding cattle, the smell of dust, and the endless pine forests of the Chilcotin Plateau. I was obsessed with wild plants, and the clear sweetness of wild roses will always return me to those days.(clique aqui para ler a entrevista completa)

Interview with Fabrice Penot of Le Labo’s “Four Letter Word”

Mention Le Labo to a perfumisto and expect a hush, followed by a sigh. Their avant-garde, strikingly modern olfactive fragrances are created by many of the world’s top perfumers, (including Mark Buxton, Anne Menardo, Maurice Roucel, Michel Almairac, Albert Morillas, Daphne Bugey and Frank Voekl). Co-founder Fabrice Penot claims to be revolutionizing the industry since establishing Le Labo Fragrances in 2006 with partner Eddie Roschi (both formerly of Giorgio Armani fragrances). If you are new to uber-niche perfumery, Le Labo fragrances are known for blending the essential oils with alcohol and water at the time of purchase and providing customized labels for the bottles; if you are a fragrance fanatic you grind your teeth every time a Le Labo City Exclusive not within a hundred miles of your town is introduced.(clique aqui para ler a entrevista completa)