Monsieur
Yves de Chiris precisa de aprensetação pois talvez nem todo mundo o conheça,
apesar de ele ser uma lenda viva na indústria da perfumaria mundial. Yves de
Chiris é um consultor de marketing e um dos nomes mais importantes e respeitados
na indústria do perfume. Descendente direto do fundador da Maison Chiris em
Grasse (família que representa a perfumaria “grassoise” por mais de 2 séculos)
ele também é um dos criadores juntamente com Olivier Cresp, do sucesso mundial
de Angel by Thierry Mugler.
Tivemos o
privilégio de passar o dia com Monsieur de Chiris em nossa escola Grasse
Institute of Perfumery. Aprendemos muito com ele. Alguns exemplos de discussões
com o mestre:
A importância da cultura de cada mercado quando
desenvolvendo uma fragrância. Por exemplo, nos USA, onde o mercado se mostra um mais conservador,
politicamente correto, a preferência é por fragrâncias mais frescas e suaves,
com notas verdes, frutadas e florais. Já na França, onde o mercado já é mais
sofisticado, eclético, aceitam melhor as fragrâncias mais ricas, florais,
orientais e inovadoras (como nicho e prestigio). Na Ásia Pacifica, outro mercado ultra
conservador, as fragrâncias leves e frescas com notas florais fazem mais
sucesso.
Qual o segredo do sucesso por trás do famoso
Chanel no.5 que permanece no topo das listas de mais vendidos desde 1921! De acordo com M. de Chiris, são 3
palavras: Transparência, Continuidade e Respeito. Transparência + Continuidade: Chanel sempre
manteve seu próprio DNA coerente nos seus lançamentos tanto de moda quanto de
perfumaria. Transparência + Continuidade:
Os frascos de todos outros perfumes sempre se mantiveram os mesmos,
reforçando a imagem do próprio Chanel no. 5. Respeito: Chanel no.5 respeita a importância qualidade
dos materiais na sua rica formulação flora, incorporando as mais finas essências
de rosas (vindo dos seus campos privados em Grasse), Ylang Ylang, Jasmim e
Baunilha. Respeito: Chanel no. 5 nunca parou de ser comunicado desde 1921!
Problemas da indústria do perfume hoje. O volume de vendas e marketing se
tornaram mais importantes do que a própria fragrância, fazendo com que o
consumidor se intimide e se perca em um mar de lançamentos. As marcas hoje tentam atingir a todos ao mesmo
tempo e cobrem basicamente todas as direções olfativas. Volume não significa
prestigio. Não é possível ser tudo ao mesmo tempo e ainda ganhar credibilidade
do consumidor. Com a recente crise
financeira global, consumidores dão mais valor ao dinheiro, ou seja, não se
permitem errar na hora da compra de uma fragrância por exemplo. As comunicações
precisam ser mais transparentes.
Futuro da indústria do perfume. De acordo com M. de Chiris, “Go
narrow and deep rather than shallow and wide”, ou seja, desenvolva poucas
marcas que sejam autenticas e possuam sua própria assinatura olfativa ao invés de
oferecer uma variedade enorme da mesma coisa e competir entre as próprias marcas.
E o mais importante no meu ponto de vista. Educação. O futuro da indústria está
na educação dos consumidores. Um bom
exemplo disto é a indústria do vinho. Há algumas décadas atrás não conseguiam
fazer uma compra discernindo um merlot de um pinot. Com a união dos produtores de vinhos,
atacadistas e pontos de vendas para educar o consumidor, hoje é possível não somente
encontrar uma variedade maior de vinhos, mas também o consumidor consegue fazer
uma compra mais consciente e bem informada. Assim se deu na indústria do pão, café,
etc... Temos que entender que vendemos emoções não perfumes, e um consumidor
bem informado terá mais prazer no processo de escolha de uma fragrância e não receio
de estar comprando algo errado. Se tornaria uma compra por impulso, gerando assim
mais vendas!
Concordo
plenamente com M. de Chiris. Acredito que a indústria do perfume em algum
momento necessitará se voltar para a educação para sua própria sobrevivência.
Um bom indício deste ciclo é um numero cada vez maior de blogs e comunidades
sobre perfumes que por enquanto ainda trabalham duramente, mas isoladamente das
empresas de perfumaria. Um dia talvez as empresas se deem conta que unindo
todas as formas de se comunicar com seus consumidores, poderão lucrar mais. O
que acham?
Tenham uma excelente e perfumada semana!
Blue Lotus Flower
ENGLISH VERSION:
The importance of each market’s culture when developing a fragrance. For example, in the USA, where the market appears to be more conservative, politically correct, the preference is for more fresh and soft fragrance with green, fruity and floral notes. In France, where the market is more sophisticated, eclectic, they accept more rich, floral, oriental and innovative (as niche and prestige) fragrances. In Asia Pacific, another market ultra-conservative, the light and fresh fragrance with floral notes is more successful.
What is the secret behind the success of the famous Chanel no.5 which remains at the top of bestseller lists since 1921? According to M. of Chiris the answer relies on three words: Transparency, Respect and Continuity. Transparency + Continuity: Chanel has always maintained its own DNA coherent in their launches, both fashion and fragrances. Transparency + Continuity: The bottles of all perfumes always remained the same, reinforcing the image of Chanel no. 5. Respect: The quality of the materials in Chanel no.5 rich floral formulation is very important. They incorporate the finest essences of roses (from their private fields in Grasse), Ylang Ylang, Jasmine and Vanilla. Respect: Chanel no. 5 has never stopped advertising since 1921!
Problems of the perfume industry today. The volume of sales and marketing became more important than the fragrance itself, so the consumer can be intimidated and get lost in a sea of launches. Today, brands are trying to reach everyone at once and basically cover all olfactory directions. Volume does not mean prestige. One cannot be everything at the same time and still be credible for the consumer. With the recent global financial crisis, consumers give more value for the money, they do not allow making mistakes when buying a fragrance, for example. Communications need to be more transparent.
Future of the perfume industry. According to M. Chiris of, "Go narrow and deep rather than shallow and wide", meaning, develop few brands that are authentic and have their own olfactory signature instead of offering a huge variety of the same thing and that also compete with each other. And the most important thing from my point of view: education. The industry future relies on educating its consumers. A good example is the wine industry. A few decades ago, one could not make a purchase differentiating a merlot from a pinot. With the integration of wine producers, wholesalers and retail outlets to educate the consumer, it is now possible not only find a greater variety of wines, but also the consumer can make an aware and more informed purchase. The same happened with the bread and coffee industries. We have to understand that we sell emotions not perfumes, and an informed consumer will have more pleasure in the process of choosing a fragrance and will not be afraid of buying something wrong. It would become an impulse purchase, thus generating more sales!
I couldn’t agree more with M. of Chiris. I think the perfume industry at some point need to turn to education for its own survival. A good indication of the beginning of this cycle is an increasing number of blogs and communities about perfumes that work hard, however alone, distant from the industry. One day maybe the companies will realize that uniting all forms of communicating with its consumers, could be actually profitable. What do you think?
Monsieur Yves de Chiris needs introduction because maybe not everyone
knows him very well, even though he is a living legend in the fragrance
industry worldwide. Yves de
Chiris is a marketing consultant and one of the most respected names in the
perfume industry. Direct descendant of the founder of Maison Chiris in
Grasse (perfume family that represents what is "grassoise" for over
two centuries) he is also one of the creators along with Olivier Cresp, of the
worldwide success of Angel by Thierry Mugler.
We were privileged to spend the day with Monsieur de Chiris at our
school, Grasse Institute of Perfumery. We learned a lot from him. Here are some
examples of our discussions with the master:
The importance of each market’s culture when developing a fragrance. For example, in the USA, where the market appears to be more conservative, politically correct, the preference is for more fresh and soft fragrance with green, fruity and floral notes. In France, where the market is more sophisticated, eclectic, they accept more rich, floral, oriental and innovative (as niche and prestige) fragrances. In Asia Pacific, another market ultra-conservative, the light and fresh fragrance with floral notes is more successful.
What is the secret behind the success of the famous Chanel no.5 which remains at the top of bestseller lists since 1921? According to M. of Chiris the answer relies on three words: Transparency, Respect and Continuity. Transparency + Continuity: Chanel has always maintained its own DNA coherent in their launches, both fashion and fragrances. Transparency + Continuity: The bottles of all perfumes always remained the same, reinforcing the image of Chanel no. 5. Respect: The quality of the materials in Chanel no.5 rich floral formulation is very important. They incorporate the finest essences of roses (from their private fields in Grasse), Ylang Ylang, Jasmine and Vanilla. Respect: Chanel no. 5 has never stopped advertising since 1921!
Problems of the perfume industry today. The volume of sales and marketing became more important than the fragrance itself, so the consumer can be intimidated and get lost in a sea of launches. Today, brands are trying to reach everyone at once and basically cover all olfactory directions. Volume does not mean prestige. One cannot be everything at the same time and still be credible for the consumer. With the recent global financial crisis, consumers give more value for the money, they do not allow making mistakes when buying a fragrance, for example. Communications need to be more transparent.
Future of the perfume industry. According to M. Chiris of, "Go narrow and deep rather than shallow and wide", meaning, develop few brands that are authentic and have their own olfactory signature instead of offering a huge variety of the same thing and that also compete with each other. And the most important thing from my point of view: education. The industry future relies on educating its consumers. A good example is the wine industry. A few decades ago, one could not make a purchase differentiating a merlot from a pinot. With the integration of wine producers, wholesalers and retail outlets to educate the consumer, it is now possible not only find a greater variety of wines, but also the consumer can make an aware and more informed purchase. The same happened with the bread and coffee industries. We have to understand that we sell emotions not perfumes, and an informed consumer will have more pleasure in the process of choosing a fragrance and will not be afraid of buying something wrong. It would become an impulse purchase, thus generating more sales!
I couldn’t agree more with M. of Chiris. I think the perfume industry at some point need to turn to education for its own survival. A good indication of the beginning of this cycle is an increasing number of blogs and communities about perfumes that work hard, however alone, distant from the industry. One day maybe the companies will realize that uniting all forms of communicating with its consumers, could be actually profitable. What do you think?
Have an excellent and fragrant week!
Blue Lotus Flower
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